We are used to associate a style, an icon or a stylistic coherence, at maison now consolidated. Still, for the next season, many designers have walked the catwalks for spring summer 2013 with a real change of direction, whose motto “Less is more” has displaced.
Dolce & Gabbana to begin from, who gave up the exaltation of glam and Fireworks, to present a Sicily already seen but that this round has chosen to celebrate the craftsmanship; that certainly strives not to create trends but that has always existed, to commemorate a heritage rooted.
Marni, which are associated with the colorful prints, couldn’t pull anything more simple and bare a white sundress. And for prints next spring summer chose monochrome tones exalting geometric volumes with them and with this, Consuelo Castiglioni celebrated a simple woman, clean but especially bright.
Angela Missoni, however, decides to make a clean sweep, suppressing the Rainbow which Missoni has always drawn upon, to share from white, softening the coral pink to black.
Miuccia Prada, then gives his collection to the emotions – they too strong for any trend – by declaring that the clothes underscore the thoughts and offers a parade where poetry and aggressiveness, smoothness and hardness, are part of the same outfit that is embodied in a closed front but deeply low-cut back, in a scenario reminiscent of the sensuality of the rising sun.
Displaces Donatella Versace, who said he wanted a new “challenge” by cancelling the iconic bustier and pushing your luck through lace lingerie dress, with a strong impact if combined with black leather.
Even Thembaprograms subtracts colors and heels but adds the hems and grants his muse shorts soft and floaty.
But then, there are those who give up the pleasure maybe granted lightness of summer fabrics, preferring the skin and fur. Salvatore Ferragamo has a skin laser cut and welded with the tulle or lace profiled leather pants giving at gaucho many alternatives. And skin for Trussardi, who proposes it for dresses, blazers and bermuda by cyclists. Summer skin, with its play of transparency.
And if, for some, the “less is more” has eradicated from our imagination that we were used to, it cannot be said that next season might not be able to satisfy the appetite of consumers for the wide variety of proposals. Delicate fabrics galore and prints that come alive on voile and chiffon, but also more static fabrics, striving to define the geometric volumes offered by many brands.
Monochromatic dresses on sculptural volumes. Long tunics and billowing the pyjamas.
If the crisis persists, leaving all suspended and unable to provide for a secure future, the designers were not lacking ideas and surprises, in contrast with a creative drive that won’t do anything to any woman’s wardrobe.
A LOOK AT EAST
If there are prints, are the kimono in many different ways, more than worthy as a replacement to the traditional tunic we saw parading on several occasions, also a “must have”.
From Japan to Indochina many people have inspired no half measures for culture of costume, which asserts itself with its unmistakable symbols, calling the order a femininity more submerged and fascinating because itself and encloses the contrasts.
Veronica Etro proposed real paintings – reclaiming stolen prints hand painted – the imaginary Japanese and parading a Warrior Princess who wears outfits kimono, dressing gowns and Caftans.
Aquilano e Rimondi have entrusted their collection Haute Couture fabrics Harlequin prints, kimono shapes and with plenty of clothes that resemble the rising but whose prints evoke more often than the commedia dell’arte and the suggestions.
Peter Dundas interprets the Indochina, giving a very sexy version with its Oriental cut evening dresses, inspired by dragoons of gold tone giving a new verve to Emilio Pucci.
Prada offers leather Sandals to wear with tabi socks gheisha from with the costume-kimono where jackets, capes and skirts with panels are new kimono, obi effect by dubbing. There are flowers that bloom, as a symbol of rebirth applied as inlays vaguely pop even at furs.
The expectations have not been disappointed by the latest developments in fashion week. A mix of creative and commercial proposals have certainly fulfilled the expectations of buyers.
The forms are a game and many have played with shapes to give body to dresses, coats and skirts from various volumes, creating new silhouettes.
Fashion and geometry with rounded shoulders and silhouette at Marni egg.
Super feminine dresses, inspired by the years ‘ 40 of Bottega Veneta, from the shoulders and knee slipping to below lines.
And the essential volumes as in contemporary architecture for the mise of Jil Sander and his come back, reaffirms its unique dna. But also, dresses with sleeves and inlaid everywhere were the real big news style.
ARISTOCRATIC AND TAILORING
The maison relying more and more their lines to craftsmanship and excellence of the ancestral techniques. A demonstration “over the top” Dolce & Gabbana gave illustrating the best of Italian craftsmanship, applied to the Sicilian tradition and imagination, able even to create outfits in raffia, decorated with coral raffia too.
Alberta Ferretti showed some wonderful sirens wearing tons of embroideries and details that are looming as the work of a luxury craft.
Frida Giannini was inspired by to la maison Gucci, at 70, recalling the aristocratic elegance of black and white shots of Gian Paolo Barbieri and Richard Avedon.
The dress will be, for the next season, the symbol of a new aristocracy.
PRINTS AND COLORS
Colors and prints continue to the catwalks. And when it comes to printing of course associate them with silks and chiffon with a series of dresses that float almost impalpable, to bring flowers and butterflies from Etro. Sea creatures mixed in animal prints from Just Cavalli. The popular super feminine dresses printed to Sicily by Dolce & Gabbana.
The fashion for next spring summer will be all a print. And, a long series of boardwalks have kicked off the parade with the “total white” to close with a “total black”.
The White was also profiled in red. As in Guccilong dress, adorned with red coral as a collier brings out the whiteness Ethereal. For white fur by Prada, inserts of red flowers. Red and white stripes for Dolce & Gabbana. A “common thread”, as if don’t want to overdo with color. Or the color, but just mentioned to bring out the purity.
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