The trench coat has been practically a rain garment in the trenches during the hard days to one of today’s most sought-after outerwear. When it comes to coats in General is the trench coat similar to the iconic a garment can be. It is prized for both its classic shape but also the functionality of men of all ages and with different aesthetic preferences.
The history of trench coat is long and stems, which is from the military, according to directoryaah. It was during the first world war that this now iconic garments adopted the form we recognize today. A form which is still startling like the first versions even though the garment’s history is more than 100 years old. The English order “trench” means ditch and it is also from there rock got its familiar name. To fight in these trenches that came to be associated with battles in the fields, was both wet and slippery but water-resistant coats made in these difficult elements. The trench coat was well known for its versatility and ability to adapt to a tough climate.
What many do not know is that the story of how the material (the treated cotton) grew the next one hundred years before the first world war broke out in the early 1900s. It was the inventor and entrepreneur Charles Mackintosh, which later gave its name to the company with his last name, as in the early 1800’s developed the treated cotton for both the British military but also civilian. The garment was in its earlier stages very warm because it barely breathed at all, which gave rise to both less pleasant odours and that the coat if it could melt in hot weather. This was something that evolved over time both famous brands such as Aquascutum and Burberry took notice of the large demand for garment and chose to develop its properties. Before the first world war had many garments of wool, which was heavy by rain and often very warm. Now got the troops in the fields an easier, smoother and more weather-resistant outerwear that use. Both Aquascutum and Burberry acknowledges today that authors of the trench coat and they marketed themselves, in their youth, as the best choice of outfits for the military. It’s a little unclear which brand that can actually call themselves as authors of the trench coat but it is in any case very strongly that both had clear links with the military and offered the treated cotton which we associate with the coat. An interesting note is that Burberry, 1912 took a patent on a knee-length and weather resistant rock called “Tielocken”, which had just the characteristic belt at the waist and wide shots.
BUR berry campaign from the early 20th century. A trench coat with them could cost £ 3 to £ 4, which was a total not everyone could afford. That corresponded approximately two monthly salaries for as a regular soldier.
The color khaki, which came to dominate the British military uniforms and we even today may count as the primary color of a trench coat, was a result from Britain’s experiences in India. The word “khaki” means “dust” (the dust) in hindi. The first experiments to color military uniforms to blend in better in the Province began around the year 1840 and before 1800 century had spread and khaki and camouflage allowed primarily infantrymen to more easily blend in with the landscape.
So what is it that makes a trench coat to the elegant, timeless and classic garments that have become? As mentioned above it is a garment that was developed for officers in the first world war dikesbataljer. The rockers was always double-breasted and tailored to her waist.From the waist with a wide belt went coat over a knee-length lower part (called the “skirt” in English). The coat should be short enough to not get stuck in the mud and broad enough to provide the wearer with as much mobility as possible. The wide belt came with so called “D-rings” where important tools or weapons could be attached. Rockers did, however, often that officers were easy to spot for snipers which in turn led to the death rates rose.
On the flip side, the trench coat a cloak over his shoulders. A detail that at rock’s development had that function to remove water. Coats often came with interchangeable feed used depending on conditions on the ground. The pockets on the front was big and spacious, and had seating for larger maps, binoculars and other essential tools. The classic trench coat had, and have even today, raglanaxlar and shoulder straps which primarily would indicate rank.
As you can see, there are many characteristic details that survives even today’s models of the garment. Many of today’s rather more modern cut models are often a bit shorter than the traditional length to the knee and not as robust over the chest and shoulders. The original models were developed to provide great mobility in the upper part, which is not as important for urban use. Raglanaxlarna is a detail that has come to characterize the classic trench coat. Raglan (which was originally a type of rock) is a ärmskärning named after Lord Raglan (lord Fitzroy Raglan). Lord Raglan was a British general during the Crimean War, 1849-50. With this sleeve, he wanted to hide the fact that his arm had been amputated. A Raglan Sleeve or shoulder is cut from the shoulder and stitched together with life with a diagonal seam.
Even after the end of the war, the popularity of the trench coat lived there and continued during the second world war in the military. At the same time, the trench coat was given another boost. This time from Hollywood where the more often used as key garments in popular movies such as Casablanca, the Maltese Falcon and The Big Sleep. The trench coat now began to be worn as a garment status globally by the social elite. The coat is also under constant update and with small changes made it available for all. Because it is so iconic, it means that many designers can play with elements of its history. Even Burberry, which consciously Center his brand around their trenchcoatens history in the middle of the last decade will understand this. The company now offers about a dozen variations of the coat in bright and dark colors and designs and with other abnormal details from origin as sleeves, belt or punches.
One of the absolute most stylish trench coats are from Japanese Cohérence, and are in The Armoury. With its slightly flared bottom and large collars feature model “Al” something extra.
Questions you me I always prefer knälångt with a roomy fit over both lower and upper part of the trench coat. This to the belt at the waist to give clear effect and create a fuller and more dynamic figure for me as a carrier. The strap can also be linked to create a little more free impression. The first trench coat man invests in should probably be in the classic khakifärgen but I can also recommend versions in both darker blue and green. If you want to have a clean front (where the belt is not visible), it can be tied together at the back but personally I think the belt is an important detail to create interest, dynamics and form.
Gabriel Öberg Bustad’s store manager at Shoe Company and will regularly share their thoughts, knowledge and ideas on style and shoes here at Manolo. Gabriel has a particularly keen interest in the classic style and a great love of crafts, tailoring and skilled craftsmen in various professions.